13/09
Rediscovering the West Coast
Rediscovering the West Coast: a trip down “The American Riviera” by Simon Lowe
Over the years I have listened to many Brits and Europeans scoff that California is just a big shopping mall with no culture; what a load of rubbish! If you have got Vietnam, Bhuttan and Patagonia out of your system, treat yourself to some of the most beautiful places, great food and fab. hotels in the western hemisphere by getting yourself to the West Coast of the USA.
San Francisco area
We started this trip in San Francisco; we decided not to stay in the usual “listed hotels”, and instead drove over the Golden Gate bridge to Sausalito, and booked in at the Above Tide Inn (30 El Portal: Sausalito: CA94965 +14153329535 ) which had a panoramic view of the San Francisco skyline that is breathtaking. This hippy village of the 60’s has lost not of its charm and is a waterfront community of pretty houses, a marina and arty shops with locals and tourists biking around its charming streets.
Poggio was a good Italian brasserie and we ate at Sushi Ran an excellent small Japanese restaurant on our second evening there. During the day we took the Ferry to S.F. passing the historic Alcatraz prison on Angel Island en route and strolled around the new Pier 1 complex which houses a wonderful array of food and other shops. It is also home to Gaston & Astrid’s La Mar, a new Peruvian restaurant (Japanese/Peruvian fusion) that I had read had just opened. We ate at its sister restaurant in Santiago last year; it is well worth a visit. (Pier 1-1/2 The Embarcadero: San. Francisco. CA 94111: +14153978880)
San Jose
The next day we drove onto Corde Valle, (1 Corde Valle Club Drive: san Martin CA 95046:+14086954500) about 40 miles south, near San Jose. This is a golf club with small casitas and houses that you can rent. It is a beautiful resort (with a full Spa) and it is in my top 10 inns of America as the best designed “modern” boutique hotel. Apart from being immaculate its setting is stunning. Here you still need to have a caddy and for those that do play it is a wonderful course.
Carmel & Big Sur
From here we made our way about 80 miles further south to Carmel, which is the little town known to some by its famous ex Mayor, Clint Eastwood and by others for its world famous Pebble Beach golf resort. Its “17 mile drive” boasts some of the most luxurious estates on the West Coast and of course it is the entrance to Big Sur, the spectacular coastal drive towards Randolph Heart’s “San Simeon” castle. The shops, restaurants and small inns are so pristine that you think you are on a stage set. Set on the water’s edge it must be one of the prettiest villages in the world.
We decided to stay around 10miles out of town in an area full of horse ranches and rolling green hills. Bernadus Lodge (415 Carmel Valley Rd: CA 93924: +1 8316583400) is located just off Carmel Valley Rd, and has about 50 charming bedrooms, the mandatory fab spa, pool and is replete with a croquet and bowling green. But do not let this mislead you, Bernadus is not English it is all Californian. Their fine dining restaurant can compete with the best and has one of those endless wine lists; dinner was a triumph.
Just 35 miles down the road in Big Sur, perched 1200 ft about sea level is the award-winning Post Ranch Inn (Highway 1: Big Sur: CA93920: +18316672200) Opened in 1992 it was hailed as an architectural masterpiece. Last year they added 10 new cabins to the existing 29. Ask for “M.Post” which is one of these facing the ocean. If you like the extraordinary, you will not be disappointed. The views are wonderful, the food delicious, and the hikes in the redwoods will help you burn off your expanding waistline.
Be sure to save time to eat in the nearby Deetjen’s at the Inn on Big Sur (48865 Highway 1 Big Sur CA 93920); it is one of the original staging posts on the road south, is very quaint and serves well cooked wholesome food. On no account miss the famous “Lodge at Pebble Beach” home to the US PGA Open. This world famous hotel on the sea has a truly proud history. It is also home to “Stillwater” one of the world’s best fish restaurants (Lodge at Pebble Beach 1700 17 Mile Drive CA 93953: +18316477500) its Calamari starter is a must and its fish soup rivals Tetou’s (if you are fish soup or bouillabaisse eater I will not need to explain what or where Tetou is!).
The drive though “17 mile drive” will make your mouth water as you feast your eyes on the sumptuous Estates along the way. Don’t ask the prices however; they may cloud your vision as your eyes start to water.
Santa Barbara
Two days later we drove the 250 miles south to Santa Barbara, our favourite place. Full of revival Spanish architecture this is an affluent and well planned town. Swaying palm trees, immaculate lawns and gardens, beaches, bike paths and sporty healthy young and older residents display the very best of the sunshine filled Californian lifestyle. The Biltmore, (1260 Channel Drive: Santa Barbara: CA 93108:) a 1920’s Hollywood ocean front masterpiece was acquired by Ty Warner, one of Americas best rag to riches stories, and has recently undergone a $200m facelift; managed by Four Seasons this is now one of the most beautiful, best kept and run hotels I have ever visited. Its gardens, accommodations, pools Spa and restaurants are truly world class. Across the road is their “Coral Casino” and beach club with an Olympic swimming pool, gym, bar and restaurant which should take your breath away.
I noticed that the very pretty receptionists all wore a small string of pearls; it is part of the uniform that they are supplied… I am sure you are getting the picture?
Onto Laguna Beach
This small arty town stretches along the sea front; although small and mostly residential it is home to 3 major 5 diamond resort hotels, the Montage, St.Regis and the Ritz Carlton. All have their followers, but we have always stayed at the Ritz Carlton(1 Ritz Carlton Drive: Dana Point: CA92629:+19492402000) because it is perched on the cliff, high above a beautiful beach and the constant sound of the Pacific surf. I mention this hotel because it recently was metamorphosis from a dowdy typical Ritz Carlton, into an amazing smart modern reincarnation. You really want to have a sea facing suite on the 4th floor, I have experimented with many over the last 15 years.
For those in need of some retail therapy, Laguna is perfectly placed for “Fashion Island” and “South Coast Plaza” together probably 2 of the very best in the West!
Los Angeles
Whether on the way in or out of the West Coast, no trip is complete without a stopover in L.A. This city is so well documented and caters to all tastes. I want to mention a new addition to the very comprehensive list of available 5 star hotels – The Montage (225 N. Canon Drive: Beverley Hills:CA 90210: +13108607800) has recently opened: perfectly placed on the doorstep of the famous Rodeo drive, it is run by one of the West Coasts very best GM’s Ali Kasikci and my old friend Frank Bowling is their “Ambassador”. Frank is a legendary GM, formerly at the Carlyle NYC, The Bel Air L.A. and more recently as Ambassador to Ali at the Peninsula in L.A. All their experience has left nothing to chance in this new landmark. All the usual luxuries are there but the attention to detail is really very special. The Spa is just out of this world.
The L.A. restaurant scene is ever changing: the new Cecconis (at the old Morton’s site) is well worth a visit, and on this trip we went very “fusion” and revisited Asia de Cuba (at the Mondrian Hotel on Sunset Blvd) which has tantalizing combinations and Crustacean (310 205 8990 9646 Little Santa Monica Blvd) a family fusion restaurant near the hotel that has mouthwatering crab and other fish combinations.
Note: The Original Getty Villa museum has now reopened after a major 3 year refit and is well worth a visit
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Well, it must be nice to be able to stay at all the places that cost upwards of $500 a night! Honestly, this read like an homage to everywhere I’d like to stay but probably never will because I’m not getting comp’ed rooms in exchange for writing a review.
Also, Why even waste time in writing about LA (it’s way too large to sum up in a paragraph)? And for heaven’s sake, you didn’t even make it to San Diego?!?!
San Francisco sounded like a fair enough review, but then as you head south, you start writing about eating and staying at more and more places that were ridiculously expensive. Was it just that you couldn’t find anything else? I’m not saying you had to stay in Motel 6, but you could have searched a little harder for more reasonably priced accommodations across the board.
I actually think you started out well, but ended on kind of a flat note. But at least you didn’t write about spending the day at Disneyland…
Hi Angela,
Thank you for your feedback – the post is meant to be completely inspirational. I believe travel is about being able to tell a story, whether from a tent in the forest or from a suite overlooking the ocean.
Best, Jason
As I’ve read your story the emotions are really there and I can feel the enjoyment. I, myself, love Santa Barbara. It’s a fantastic place that everyone should really go.